Plants, Wildlife and Polycultures for Forest Gardens and Regenerative Landscapes - Part 11
Welcome to part 11 of a series where I'll be posting some observations and experiences about the various plant species from our forest gardens and regenerative landscapes, as well as interesting plants and polycultures from around the world.
We'll explore plants for different layers of the forest garden, highlight key wildlife for regenerative landscapes, showcase successful polycultures, and offer guidance on designing, building, and managing these systems.
Parts 1-10 can be found here
Forest Garden Plants
Canopy Layer - Pomegranate - Punica granatum is a multipurpose tree that could be grown in a fruit garden, as a hedge or trimmed to shape as an ornamental.
Primarily valued for its edible fruit as far back as historical records reveal, if you would like a lot of fruit it’s best grown as a free standing tree with plenty of light.
The pomegranate is among the most delicious and nutrient-rich fruits, packed with vitamin C, potassium, and fiber. Pomegranate commonly grows to around 4 - 5 m in height, as a woody round shrub or small tree and produces stiff branches covered with glossy, leathery lance-shaped leaves and red flowers that are showy and attractive to a large range of pollinators.
We’ve been experimenting with cold hardy cultivars in our gardens and although still waiting for fruit, the plants have started to flower this season and survived three winters so far. You can find more info on this cultivars in the link below.
For more on this incredible plant see our Essential Guide to Probably Everything you Need to Know about Growing Pomegranate - Punica granatum
Shrub Layer - Capparis spp. - Capers, those little salty, speckled, pea-sized delights often found in Mediterranean cuisine, are plants native to the Mediterranean, thriving on cliff faces and rocky outcrops.
During a trip to Italy a few summers back it was wonderful to see these plants growing on the Aurelian walls of ancient Rome, I believe these to be Capparis orientalis, also edible.
Capparis orientalis - Caper bush, is the most widely cultivated plant for Caper production and, Capparis spinosa - Spiny Caper also produces edible capers and the leaves can also be used in salads and fish dishes, pickled or boiled and preserved in jars with brine. Furthermore they can be used as a substitute of rennet – to separate milk into solid curds – in the production of high-quality cheese.
The leaves and roots can also be boiled to create a decoction for treating skin rashes.
At the end of this post you can find a recipe of how to prepare capers.
Herb Layer - Russian Tarragon - Artemisia dracunculoides is a hardy perennial herb that can be a valuable addition to a forest garden. While it might not boast the same intense flavor as its French cousin, it offers a distinct aromatic profile and a robust nature that make it well-suited to less-than-ideal growing conditions.
In the forest garden, Russian Tarragon can play multiple roles. Its tolerance for shade allows it to thrive in areas where other herbs might struggle. It can be planted as an understory herb, forming a fragrant ground cover. Its tall stature also makes it a suitable companion for taller shrubs or small trees, adding both culinary and aesthetic value to the space. I find it best to harvest from early spring to mid summer when the new growth is tender. It's a great addition to stir-fries, and I often enjoy it with Asparagus officinalis - Asparagus
Beyond its culinary uses, Russian Tarragon is known for its medicinal properties. Some cultures have traditionally used it to aid digestion, reduce inflammation, and even as a mild stimulant.
Ground Layer - Geranium macrorrhizum - Bigroot Geranium is a tough and versatile perennial that thrives in many garden situations. Reaching up to 45 centimeters tall, it forms a dense carpet of lobed, aromatic leaves that add a touch of texture and fragrance to your landscape and serve very well as weed barrier.
In late spring to early summer, clusters of delicate pink flowers rise above the leaves, adding a pop of color. It tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, from average to well-drained, and thrives in full sun to deep shade. This adaptability makes it a great choice for areas that might be challenging for other plants. Drought tolerance is another perk, although consistent watering will encourage better flowering. Plus, deer and rabbits will generally leave it alone, adding another layer of appeal. With its easy care, attractive foliage, and charming flowers, the Bigroot Geranium is a winner for gardeners seeking a reliable and low-fuss groundcover in shady conditions.
More on our forest garden plants here and fruit and nut cultivars we grow here
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Wildlife in the Forest Garden - Mustelidae
Often overlooked due to their secretive nature and nocturnal habits, Mustelids are invaluable allies in the forest garden. As natural predators of rodents, including the notorious vole, they can significantly help to control pest populations that often plague an establishing forest garden.
The most common mustelid species in Europe that are typically beneficial for forest gardens, assuming you're not keeping domestic birds or small mammals (or they're securely enclosed), include the following:
Weasel - Mustela nivalis - the smallest carnivore in Europe.
Stoat- Mustela erminea - can change color seasonally.
Eurasial - Mustela putorius - larger than the two above and the primary suspect for murdering our chickens over the years in our gardens in Shipka where it is known locally as Por.
Ferret - Mustela putorius furo - a domesticated form of the polecat.
Beech Marten - Martes foina - often found in urban areas.
Pine Marten - Martes martes - primarily a forest dweller.
The jury is out on European Badger - Meles meles. While they do prey on some rodents, their diet is primarily focused on earthworms, insects, and fruits. This means they can be beneficial in controlling certain insect populations but they will dig burrows that will disrupt the garden's structure. They will also consume bulbs and tubers and can carry diseases that might affect other wildlife or, in rare cases, humans.. Badgers are certainly welcome in our gardens, in the areas left to grow wild where they seem to appreciate it more in any case.
Less common or only found in specific regions/habitats is the European Otter - Lutra lutra, an aquatic mustelid, Wolverine -Gulo gulo, the largest mustelid and found only in northern regions feeding mainly on Artic fox and European Mink - Mustela lutreola is now an endangered species.
Mustelids mainly prey on rodents like voles and mice. Having a population of these rodents in your garden will attract mustelids and if the habitat for nesting and sheltering is available they will control the population. Avoid using rodenticides, which can harm mustelids as well as their prey.
So here's how to create a mustelid -friendly habitat:
Structure is key:
Dense vegetation: Mustelids prefer areas with thick cover for hunting and hiding. Plant shrubs, tall perennials, and flowering vines to create a dense understory layer. Consider native berry bushes that provide food and shelter.
Hiding spots: Mustelids need protected spaces to rest and raise young. Brush piles made from fallen branches, rock piles, and even old logs create ideal denning sites.
Water access: While Mustelids don't necessarily need a large water source, a small pond, birdbath, or even a dripping hose provides them with water for drinking. We have a number of small ponds in the gardens that serve the purpose well. For how to build a wildlife pond see our previous post here.
Finding the balance:
While some open areas are okay, Mustelids generally avoid large swathes of open space. Maintain a balance between open areas for hunting and dense cover for protection. During the development of our new forest garden Phronesis we made sure to maintain some existing scrub and planned for patches of open spaces even when the garden is mature. The below sections marked with white spots are the retained scrub and the dark green spots will be left as meadow.
Coexistence with other predators:
Mustelids can be territorial with other Mustelids species and larger predators like foxes. If you have a large garden, creating habitat corridors with good cover can allow for multiple Mustelids to coexist.
Remember, attracting wildlife takes time and patience. By incorporating these tips, you'll create a welcoming habitat that might just attract some resident Mustelids to help keep your rodent population in check.
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Polycultures
Here is a a view from the home forest garden in early Summer. This polyculture has developed well over the years. We’ve lifted the lower branches of the Cornellian Cherry - Cornus mas and White Mulberry - Morus alba to allow more light into the shrub and herb layers and still have some more room in the understory for bulbs that will flower in succession before and after the Giant Onion - Allium giganteum.
The Goji Berry - Lycium barbarum is mainly used as a biomass plant here, producing lots of soft herbaceous growth in early spring to early summer but will also produce a few berries. Oleaster - Elaeagnus x ebbingei will be kept trimmed tight, also to produce biomass with the added benefit of nitrogen fixation, but we have found that as the plants mature they will still produce a decent amount of berries even when trimmed. The trick is to trim after the fruiting period in April and prune again in the beginning of June. The flowers will develop during the Autumn and if pollinated and fertilized, the berries will ripen around April .
You can find the plant profiles for all of these species in the below links
Cornellian Cherry - Cornus mas
Oleaster - Elaeagnus x ebbingei
Giant Onion - Allium giganteum
Orange Daylily - Hemerocallis fulva
Harvesting and Preparing Capers - Capparis spp.
The commercially available capers you find in stores primarily come from Capparis spinosa, also known as the common caper or thorny caper.
Harvesting:
Timing is key: You want the unopened flower buds, not the blooms! Aim for tight, small buds before they open.
Early riser: Pick them early in the morning for the best flavor and texture.
Selective fingers: Use your fingers or small pruners to gently remove the buds, leaving the stems on the plant.
Repeat harvest: The caper bush can be harvested every 10-12 days during the hot season.
Preparing
Fresh capers are very bitter and not typically eaten raw. They need processing to be palatable. Traditionally, capers are preserved in one of two ways:
Salt-cured: Involves packing the buds with coarse salt, drawing out moisture and developing flavor.
Pickled: Soaking the buds in a brine or vinegar solution for a tangy taste.
Salt-Curing Capers
Ingredients:
Fresh caper buds
Coarse sea salt
Instructions:
Clean and dry: Rinse the caper buds thoroughly and pat them dry with a clean cloth. Discard any damaged buds.
Layer it up: In a clean, dry jar, alternate layers of capers and coarse sea salt. Ensure all the capers are covered in salt.
Weight it down: (Optional) Place a small, clean weight on top of the capers to press out any moisture.
Shake and replenish: Every day, shake the jar to distribute the salt. You might need to add more salt as the capers release moisture.
Patience is key: This process can take a week or longer, depending on the size of the capers. The capers are ready when they become firm and no longer release moisture.
Store it right: Transfer the cured capers to a clean, airtight container and store them in a cool, dry place for up to a year.
Pickling Capers
Ingredients:
Fresh caper buds
White vinegar
Water
Salt
(Optional) Herbs and spices like bay leaves, peppercorns, or dill seeds.
Instructions:
Soak it out: Rinse the capers and soak them in fresh water for 3-4 days, changing the water daily. This removes some bitterness.
Brine time: Prepare a brine solution by simmering equal parts white vinegar and water with salt. You can add herbs and spices for extra flavor at this stage.
Jar it up: Pack the soaked capers into a sterilized jar and pour the hot brine over them, ensuring all capers are submerged.
Seal the deal: Seal the jar tightly with a sanitized lid.
Waiting game: Let the pickled capers sit at room temperature for 3 days, then transfer them to the refrigerator for at least a week before using. They will continue to develop flavor over time and can be stored for several months.
If you don’t have access to these Mediterranean maritime plants, a plant that can be grown pretty much anywhere in the world is Tropaeolum majus - Garden Nasturtium.
If you can resist eating the spicy orange flowers they will form into pea sized seeds and these can be processed the same way and used as substitute for capers.
Enjoy !
That’s all for this post! To view all of the posts from this series see here
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Hi Paul, I’m trying to grow mulberry in a tub - is that a lost cause? What is the above ground approximate footprint / diameter of the polyculture you describe in the post? Looks wonderful.
To be “regenerative” these plants should be native to your area.