Arabian Walkabout - Saudi Arabia - AlUla- Where Ancient History Meets Regenerative Futures
The plan was to pass through AlUla to visit the Nabataean tombs, 9 days later I was still there, in a land that is somehow simultaneously anchored in the past and reaching into the future. During this post I’ll share the magic of AlUla, a place where ancient traditions and regenerative innovations coexist in a landscape that feels both timeless and transformative.
AlUla - Where is it ?
AlUla is a breathtaking region located on the Arabian Peninsula in northwestern Saudi Arabia.
It lies in a vast, awe-inspiring valley nestled between the Hijaz Mountains to the west and the Tuwaiq Escarpment to the east. This unique geographical setting creates a dramatic landscape of towering sandstone cliffs, lush oases, and sweeping desert plains. The valley itself is a product of millions of years of geological activity, with its fertile soil and natural springs supporting life in an otherwise arid environment.
AlUla History
This enchanting region, with its dramatic landscapes and rich cultural heritage, has been a crossroads of civilizations for thousands of years. The oasis has had permanent human settlement since 5000 BCE, through the Bronze Age. Around 670 BC the Dadan and Lihyan civilizations hosted their ancient capital in AlUla and their Kingdom thrived as a vital trade hub along the Incense Trail, a route that would link the area to Africa, China the Levant and beyond. At the onset of the first millennia AlUla became a key settlement for the Nabataeans, the civilization behind the iconic city of Petra, who carved the stunning tombs of Hegra into the sandstone cliffs.
Over the more recent centuries, AlUla was influenced by various cultures, including the Romans, Ottomans, and early Islamic empires. Today, it is a symbol of Saudi Arabia's efforts to preserve and showcase its historical and archaeological treasures, attracting visitors from around the world.
It’s a place of breathtaking natural beauty, where rock formations rise like sentinels against the horizon, and palm-fringed oases offer a serene escape from the desert heat. The place certainly has a way of grounding you in the moment and connecting you to something greater.
A Symphony of Nature and Architecture in Harmony with the Environment
It’s very clear that the recent development of AlUla, which started just 6 years ago, has been carefully designed to harmonize with its natural surroundings, ensuring that the architecture and infrastructure blend seamlessly with the environment.
This approach is rooted in a deep respect for the region’s stunning landscapes, which include dramatic sandstone cliffs, lush oases, and ancient archaeological sites.
The color palette used in AlUla’s development draws inspiration from the earthy tones of the desert, with shades of beige, terracotta, and warm browns dominating the design. These colors not only reflect the natural hues of the surrounding rocks and sand but also help the structures to appear as though they have emerged organically from the landscape, even the petrol stations!
Many of the colors used within the city’s design mimic those from past eras when pigments were extracted from plants. This connection is highlighted throughout the area's art galleries, where displays often showcase the various plant dyes and their historical significance. There are a tremendous amount of plants that can be used for dye and I’ve included a list of some of the most popular species later in the post.
Materials chosen for the development are locally sourced and sustainable, further enhancing the connection to the environment. Stone, clay, and other natural materials are used extensively, ensuring that the buildings are not only visually cohesive with the surroundings but also environmentally responsible.
The use of traditional building techniques, such as mud-brick construction, pays homage to the region’s cultural heritage while providing practical benefits like natural insulation against the desert’s extreme temperatures. This thoughtful integration of materials in the Old town ensures that the development maintains a timeless aesthetic.
Beyond the physical structures, the landscaping and urban planning of AlUla are designed to complement the natural topography. Pathways and open spaces are carefully aligned to preserve the existing flora and fauna, allowing visitors to experience the beauty of the desert without disrupting its delicate ecosystem.
Street Plants of AlUla
I’ve been travelling the region building a portfolio of native plants that can be used for Xeric Polyculture (see more on that here) and arriving in AlUla I was immediately struck by the use of native plants in the landscaping. The planting schemes and choice of plants further reinforce the connection to the environment, creating a sense of continuity between the built and natural worlds.
AlUla’s landscaping serves as a model for how modern infrastructure at scale can coexist with and enhance the natural environment, rather than overshadowing it. It’s also relatively low maintenance, enhances biodiversity and with many of the plants grown from seed from wild natives, it’s a great way to preserve and expand the genetic stock of the countries native flora as well as provide dignified work to nursery growers in the region.
I’ll be going into much more detail regarding the use of native plants for Xeric Polycultures but for now here is a list of Arabian natives that have been used in the AlUla landscape.
Inspired and encouraged by the use of native plants in the area, I was absolutely delighted to discover the Palm Oasis. While I’ve encountered a few oases during my travels across Saudi Arabia, none have matched the scale and accessibility of this one. Unlike others that often require a 4x4 or leave you wondering if they’re private property, the Palm Oasis in AlUla is openly welcoming to all, inviting exploration and connection with its natural beauty.
Discovering Daimumah: Where Ancient Heritage Meets Regenerative Farming.
Nestled in the heart of AlUla, lies the Daimumah Farm Project—a modern agricultural oasis that beautifully bridges the past and the future. For travelers seeking a excellent example of regenerative landscape, Daimumah shows how the land that once sustained ancient kingdoms is now being used to sustain the present and future.
What looks like a monoculture of Date Palms from the distance is in fact a thriving polyculture landscape with Citrus, Mango, Guava, Pomegranate and Olives, to name but a few of the fruit trees, growing within and around the Date Palms, not to mention the variety of herbs and vegetables grown within the gaps of the food forest.
Walking through the farm, you’ll notice the careful balance between productivity and preservation of the old settlement. The crops are grown using organic methods, and the land is managed with a deep respect for the surrounding ecosystem.
It’s a refreshing reminder that agriculture doesn’t have to come at the expense of the environment and perfectly demonstrates how producing resources for humans can enhance biodiversity and be healthy for the ecology. A lot of the food produced on the farm ends up on the tables of the many restaurants in the area. From a few walks around I identified the following crops growing.
Daimumah is more than just a farm—it’s a symbol of hope and renewal. It shows how a region with such a rich history can embrace innovation without losing sight of its roots. For travelers, it’s an opportunity to witness the beauty of a regenerative landscape and to be inspired by the resilience of both nature and humanity.
Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a history buff, a polyculture gardener or simply someone who appreciates good food and fresh air, this hidden gem promises an unforgettable experience. The contrast between the lush greenery and the golden desert, especially so with the shifting light during sunset and sundown is truly magical!
Polycultures within the Palm Grove
There are patches in the Oasis where the Date Palms are grown solo with a few native Acacia trees around the edges. Each palm is planted inside a 3m wide dish that is filled with water periodically. It will be interesting to see how the productivity of the Date Palms in the polyculture areas compare.
The entire Oasis can certainly be considered a polyculture, a mosaic of polycultures. A few that caught my eye were Banana, Fig and Jujube under Dates with large gaps for annual vegetable production and perennial herbs around the borders.
Nitrogen fixers are also included within the planting, the most common around the heart of the Oasis being Acacia retinodes - Willow acacia, a native to Australia, Pithecellobium dulce - Manila tamarind from Central America and the local native Acacia gerrardii - Grey Haired Acacia. I also saw a few young Moringa oleifera and the native Moringa peregrina planted next to fruit trees in the area where the Heritage Trail starts from South Entrance.
In the past the irrigation was supplied from a manually operated well (that can still be seen in various places around the oasis) but nowadays an electric pump is used to draw the water. In some areas drip irrigation has been installed in other areas the old system of flood irrigation is used with water flowing into bed areas through large diameter pipes.
With water flowing, birds singing, dragon flies buzzing around and healthy plants growing, the area is a delight to walk around. There are well marked trails for biking and hiking that pass through the Palm Oasis and connect to many of the main attractions in the area.
Regenerative Landscape Design - Online Interactive Course
Want to learn how to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes? Join us on our Regenerative Landscape Design - Online Interactive Course. We look forward to providing you with the confidence, inspiration, and opportunity to design, build and manage regenerative landscapes, gardens, and farms that produce food and other resources for humans while enhancing biodiversity.
You can access the course material at anytime and join the live sessions and interactive forums that run from May - Oct every year. All members of the Bloom Room receive a 500 EUR discount. To take up this offer all you have to do is become an annual subscribers to our Substack and register here with the promo code BLOOM.
I look forward to you joining !
Wildlife In AlUla
The AlUla valley is a great place to see some of the magnificent mammals that roam these lands. The Reem Gazelle - Gazella marica, with its delicate frame and elegant horns, is one of the most captivating sights in AlUla’s desert landscape. Watching these creatures move gracefully across the golden sands feels like witnessing a living piece of the region’s soul—a reminder of how life thrives even in the harshest environments.
They’re not alone here; the Arabian Oryx - Oryx leucoryx , with its striking white coat and long, dagger-like horns, and the Idmi Gazelle -Gazella gazella, smaller but equally resilient, also roam these lands. Seeing them in their natural habitat, especially after learning about the efforts to bring them back from the brink of extinction, is humbling. It’s a testament to AlUla’s commitment to preserving its natural heritage.
Indigenous to AlUla and critically endangered, the Arabian Leopard - Panthera pardus nimr is among the rarest of mammals, with fewer than 200 adults living in the wild. I did’nt get a chance to see one of these magnificent creatures but I hear they are reintroducing populations back into the wild around the national parks.
There are a surprising amount and variety of birds in the area, including Arabian Partridge – Alectoris melanocephala, Desert Owl – Strix hadorami, Lappet-faced Vulture – Torgos tracheliotos, Arabian Green Bee-eater – Merops cyanophrys, Brown-necked Raven – Corvus ruficollis and Pharaoh Eagle-Owl – Bubo ascalaphus.
Plants of Interest
Driving in from Tabuk in the North it’s flat and stark on a straight road for about 2hrs which makes the approach to AlUla even more spectacular. My introduction to the area and my first stop was to marvel at the Umbrella Thorn Acacia - Vachellia tortilis (formerly Acacia tortilis) a resilient and iconic tree that thrives in the arid landscapes of AlUla.
Adapted to extreme drought, the tree survives the harsh climate through deep taproots that access groundwater and small, feathery leaves that minimize water loss. Its distinctive umbrella-shaped canopy provides vital shade and shelter for wildlife, livestock, and travelers, while its presence helps stabilize sandy and rocky soils, preventing erosion.
Ecologically, the Umbrella Thorn Acacia is a cornerstone of the desert ecosystem. It supports local fauna, including birds, insects, and small mammals, which rely on its leaves, flowers, and seed pods for food.
Other native Acacias in the region include - Gum Arabic Tree - Vachellia nilotica, Red Acacia - Vachellia seyal, White Thorn Acacia -Vachellia flava, Acacia ehrenbergiana - Senegalia ehrenbergiana, Acacia gerrardii and Acacia raddiana.
Look closely into the crowns of some of the Acacia trees and you may see some dark clusters or red flowers. This will be Plicosepalus acaciae -Acacia Mistletoe a parasitic plant belonging to the family Loranthaceae.
It is specifically adapted to grow on acacia trees, from which it derives its name. It’s native to arid and semi-arid regions, particularly in the Middle East and parts of Africa, where acacia trees are prevalent. As a hemiparasite, Plicosepalus acaciae attaches itself to the branches of its host tree using specialized structures called haustoria, which penetrate the host's vascular system to extract water and nutrients. However, unlike full parasites, it retains the ability to photosynthesize, producing some of its own energy through its green leaves.
The plant is characterized by its small, leathery leaves and clusters of tubular flowers, which are often brightly colored, attracting pollinators such as birds and insects. After pollination, it produces small berries that are dispersed by birds, aiding in its propagation to new host trees.
It plays a role in the ecosystem by providing food and habitat for various organisms. However, it can also be considered a pest in some areas, as heavy infestations may weaken or even kill host trees, particularly in already stressed environments like deserts.
Jujube - Ziziphus spina-christi is one of the the few natives growing in the area that will probably grow well in our gardens back in Shipka being hardy to USDA zone 5-10. It’s also a very drought-resistant tree that thrives in the arid environment of the AlUla valley. It can grow up to 10–15 meters tall, has a gnarled trunk, thorny branches, and glossy green leaves. It produces fragrant yellowish-green flowers and small, edible fruits called jujube or nabq, which turn reddish-brown when ripe and are valued for their sweetness and nutritional benefits.
I noticed the larger fruiting Ziziphus mauritiana growing among the Palms in the oasis (see Polyculture photo above) and it looked in great condition under irrigation.
Ecologically, Ziziphus spina-christi plays a vital role in the ecosystem. Its deep root system allows it to survive in poor, rocky soils, making it highly resilient to drought. The tree provides food and shelter for wildlife, including birds and insects, and helps prevent soil erosion. Culturally, it has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties, edible fruits, and durable wood. It also holds religious and symbolic significance in some traditions, often associated with resilience and endurance. As mentioned above, it’s great to see this resilient native used so frequently in the landscaping of the area.
Dye Plants
Here is the list of some popular plants used for making dye, that I refereed to earlier. If you know some other plants used for Dye let us know in the comment section below.
Probably the most famous dye plant is Henna - Lawsonia inermis a native to North Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia and well renowned for its natural dye, lawsone, found in its leaves, which is used for temporary body art (mehndi), hair dye, and fabric coloring.
Culturally significant in Hindu, Muslim, and Jewish traditions, henna is often applied during weddings and festivals for good luck and protection. Medicinally, it has antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, treating skin conditions, wounds, and headaches. Henna thrives in hot, arid climates and is drought-resistant. I found the plant growing under Date Palms in the wonderful polyculture oasis.
What makes AlUla truly special is its ability to surprise you. One day, you might be marveling at a 2,000-year-old inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah, and the next, you could be wandering through a modern art installation or marveling at one of the super sleek new architecture projects. It’s a destination that defies expectations, blending ancient traditions with innovative visions for the future.
Some Travel Tips
The best time to visit AlUla is during the cooler months, from October to April, when the weather is perfect for exploring. When i visited in January it was cold at night and early morning, so best bring something to wrap up in.
A lot of the sites in the area you can explore independently and there are no entrance fees for many of the attractions , however for Safari, the Tombs, Dadan ancient city and Maraya along with some of the restaurants you need make reservations and you will not get past various checkpoints without a reservation.
There is a handy app , Experience AlUla you can use to book places and make payments. The whole city is more or less cashless so make sure you have visa, google pay, apple pay or one of the local payment networks mada, SADAD, Esal or Sarie.
If you prefer to explore places in solitude, go in the morning or during the day. Just before sundown and into the night most places are bustling and it’s incredibly beautiful at night.
Accommodation at the resorts is relatively expensive but there are some comfortable options that you’ll find on Agoda around the outskirts of town but you will need a car to get to and from a lot of places. Uber works and there are plenty of car hire options in the area. The old town that run parallels with the Polyculture Palm Oasis is a no car area and is a great place to wander around on foot. There are also courtesy electric buggies for the elderly and disabled.
Development in the area is still ongoing, but unlike the Neom region—which still feels like one massive construction site filled with trucks, JCBs, and cranes (more than you could imagine exist on the entire planet)—the progress here is much more subtle. In fact, the ongoing development is hardly noticeable. The city is part of the Kingdom’s Vision 2030 project so I’m sure over the next 5 years there will be new things to discover and hopefully equally in harmony with what is already here and has been for millennia.
That’s all for now. Thanks for reading :)
Support Our Project
If you appreciate the work we are doing you can show your support in several ways.
Become a member of the Bloom Room. A $70 annual subscription to our Substack provides you with access to live sessions, design tutorials, a members forum and more, see details here.
Make a purchase of plants or seeds from our Nursery or Online Store
Joining us for one of our Practical Courses or Online Courses
Comment, like, and share our content on social media.
We offer a diversity of plants and seeds for permaculture, forest gardens, and regenerative landscapes including a range of fruit and nut cultivars. We Deliver all over Europe from Nov - March. - Give a happy plant a happy home :)
Welcome to our Online Store where you can find Forest Garden/ Permaculture plants, seeds, bulbs, and Polyculture multi-packs along with digital goods and services such as Online Courses, Webinars and eBooks. We hope you enjoy the store and find something you like. It's your purchases that keep our Project going.
You can also find our full list of trees. shrubs and herbs for forest gardens on our nursery website.
What an extraordinary glimpse into a quite unknown place. Thank you. The work you have done there and on this article is visible and appreciated. I am a permaculturist in Wisconsin, US, so it was especially of interest to me.
May your work continue with success for all good reasons.
Phenomenal piece of work! This one article has totally flipped my perspective on growing in such a region. Beautiful.